Home Again

We arrived home to a much colder climate than we left which provided a shock effect to the return.  We arrived at Newark Airport and then drove for 4 hours to our home.  While we tried to adjust to the time difference, even going to bed as soon as we arrived home even though we were in a different time zone, we were nevertheless hit with jet lag the next day.  

Marty in his blog, summarized the trip and appreciation to all very nicely so I won't repeat that.

I will say that for me, this was a very special trip.  I am very grateful to have had the opportunity to experience this trip with Marty and to have been able to return to Israel.  With each trip, I feel more committed to supporting Israel and to continuing my studies, of Torah, Hebrew and history and development of Israel.  

Thanks to all who followed our journey!

Shabbat-Saturday-last day

Today was our last day in Jerusalem.  Marty and I led a group back to the Old City for final shopping and a return to Lina's for humus.  As all the Jewish run stores are closed today, the Arab Market is the place to shop.  It was a very busy and crowded.  At one point, while we were on Kind David Street, it became so dense with people and it became impossible to move. It was very scary for a few moments until things opened up.  We all managed to pick up a few last minute items and found our way to Lina's.  We found our way out of the Market through a less crowded Quarter of the Old City and then walked back for a much deserved rest.  We had our last study session which focused on the "descent from the mountain" a metaphor for our "ascent" to Jerusalem.  The discussion centered around participants transition back to life at home.  

After our discussion, we boarded a bus for the last time, to a restaurant called Joy in German Town, for our farewell dinner.  Some of our new friends would be leaving after dinner and then through varying hours of the early morning.  We were all sad to leave, but excited about bringing back what we learned and experienced.  We are also looking forward to our reunion in a few weeks.

Friday-day and Shabbat

This morning, it was a beautiful day in Jerusalem.  We did not have to set an alarm and woke up leisurely but in time to have breakfast.  There was no set plan for this day and there were several options presented to the group.  However, I did not want to be committed to any group activities, and Marty and I decided to return to the Old City.  Today being Shabbat, the stores in the Jewish Quarter close at 1:00 p.m. and I was to pick up some jewelry I had made at a silversmith, Hadaya, before the holiday.  Also, I wanted to return to the Western Wall (Kotel) to express my gratitude for having been in Israel and for all the physical and spiritual sustenance I (we) received.  Of course, this has been an ongoing conversation with G-d since we arrived and will be even once we return.  This has been a very big and significant trip and the fact that we were able to do this is a blessing indeed.

I also wanted to go to the Kotel when there were not so many woman at the Wall so that I would have the opportunity to get up to it.  While I was standing there praying, I couldn't help but hear a young woman praying so softly but with such intent and joy in her voice.  

As I was leaving, I looked to see who I would give the (2) 5 shekels I carried for a charity donation.  Orthodox women sit inside the area of the Kotel and ask for charity, as is the custom here.  The money goes to taking care of the area and in some cases even to provide for their own families. I spotted two woman to whom I gave each  5 shekels.  The second, an older woman, called me back, took my hand and put a bracelet of red string and a Hamsah (for good luck and to ward off the evil eye) and blessed me.  I thanked her and wished her a Shabbat Shalom and she responded in kind.  I was very moved by this interaction and felt that it was a G-d moment.

After leaving the Kotel, Marty and I stopped at a coffee shop that we had visited before and had a couple of cappuccino's, sitting outside, watching women and children on their way home to get ready for Shabbat.  

We then walked back to the hotel.  After 5 days here, I have finally remembered and figured out the quickest way to get to the Kotel and Old City from the hotel as well as getting around the Old City.  I think that each time I come I remember more quickly and find that I can get around at least to those areas that I am looking for.

We returned in time for an afternoon study session.  After this, again options were presented to celebrate Shabbat.  I had initially intended to return to the Kotel, but decided that I would rather take a Shabbat rest and took a nap for a couple of hours.  It was good to get off my feet and to catch up on a little sleep.  Since we have been in Israel, Marty and I have been walking as well as hiking most days.  In Jerusalem, there is much walking to and from the Old City, in the Old City and much of this is up and down stone steps.  So now I hope we will be able to continue our walking/hiking when we return home (although I must say it is a bit easier when the weather is nice.)

After our rest, we met up with our group for dinner at the hotel.  It was nice catching up with some people that we had not seen over the past few days as everyone was doing their own thing in the evenings.  

We have one more day in Jerusalem.  Tonight, we organized our purchases and are starting to pack our bags.  While it is sad to leave, Marty and I are both ready to return home.  We met some wonderful people and have bonded well as a group during our time together.

Tomorrow we will return to the Old City with some of the group to pick up a few items in the Arab Shuk (which is open on Shabbat).  We will also visit the Kotel again.  Tomorrow night we have a fare well dinner and then members of the group begin to leave .  We will be leaving on Sunday at 7 a.m. taking a taxi with another couple to the airport for an 11:00 a.m. flight.

I will fill in when we return home with any last comments as well as photos.

Thursday-Valley of Elah/Museum on the Seam/Darna

This morning we head off to the Valley of Elah.  This is where David slew Goliath and then we return to the Old City again for exploration and shopping. More later.

It is now 11:43 p.m. and Marty and I just returned from dinner at a Moroccan restaurant, Darna, in Jerusalem.  We were invited out to dinner by one of our fellow travelers, Margie, in appreciation of us being with her and helping her out during the trip.  It was a wonderful dinner and the restaurant was very Moroccan in decor.  

Today was a very full day, as I said we started out in the Valley of Elah.  This is in the Judean Hills and from the top of a Tel (a mound which contains several layers of civilizations built on top of each other) we were able to see the area from which David slew Goliath, over 3000 years ago. This is also the valley that is depicted in the 23rd Psalm referring to David's anticipation of his battle with Goliath.

We stopped for lunch before proceeding to our next destination.

From there we went to the Museum on the Seam.  This is a museum that was built in a former fortress which sat on the boundary between East and West Jerusalem.  East Jerusalem previously being part of Jordan.  The curator and creator of this museum focuses on themes having to do with the conflict between Palestinians and Israeli and the current exhibit has pieces that represent both physically and metaphorically the pain, anguish and anxiety felt by people of both sides.  The curator went through the exhibit and explained many of the pieces as we went along and was very passionate in as he expressed his belief that there is no simple solution to this conflict and that dividing neighborhoods that are currently entwined is not the solution, but rather that (simply) people become more humane and recognize the need to accept and get along with each other.  It was a very moving as well as disturbing exhibit and illustrated yet another view of life in Israel.

From the museum we returned to the Old City for more shopping.  Yesterday, we shopped at the Cardo (in the Jewish Quarter) and today I wanted to return to a particular stall in the Arab Quarter.  The man who ran this shop, from which I had purchased several scarves yesterday, had developed a crush on me and offered several deals, including giving me some free gifts; such as a coral necklace; a silver chain, a scarf and several boxes (inlaid) to house the jewelry I bought as gifts. He was disappointed when I introduced him to Marty, who was sitting on a chair in the corner.  But non-the-less, I did receive items at a good price, including scarves which I paid as little as $2.00 a piece for.  I brought a couple of other fellow travelers to purchase items there and he was very appreciative, offering Turkish coffee and sweet mint tea as part of his hospitality.

With bags laden with items, we loaded back on the bus and returned to the hotel, where we had about 20 minutes before joining the study session before dinner.  This study session focused particularly on the story of David and Goliath and compared it to some themes having to do with Joseph (with the coat of many colors).  It was a very interesting discussion but I was so tired from the day, I did not say much.  

Tonight we were invited out by Margie, to a restaurant called Darna.  This is an authentic Moroccan restaurant.  The ambiance was perfect and the food was fabulous.  We arrived for 8 p.m. reservations and before we knew it it was 11:30.  Dinner started with an array of salads before the main course which was an assortment of tagines, each more delicious than the next.  The dessert was a thin fried pastry topped with cinnamon, nuts and honey.  

It is late now and I am pretty tired.  Tomorrow is the first day we will not receive a wake up call and is more of a free day.  As it will be Shabbat, many of the stores (except the Arab stores) will close about 1 p.m., so we plan to go to the Old City in the morning to pick up my ring and earings and any other items we want.  Later in the afternoon, Marty and I will go to the Wall to celebrate Shabbat.  

Wednesday-Yad Vashem and Cardo

This morning we got up early and after breakfast left for Yad Vashem (the Holocaust Memorial-educational center, etc.).  Marty and I had visited Yad Vashem 28 years ago, but since that time, an entirely new structure and facility was created and this was our first visit there.  We entered through a garden of trees planted for the Rightous Gentiles, these are non-Jews who risked their lives to save Jews during the Holocaust.  We then continued to a memorial for the million and a half children that were murdered during this period.  From here we entered the main building. There were many groups from Israel, the United States and other countries visiting at the same time.  I went through fairly quickly, mostly searching for stories, events, etc. that were relevant to members of my family, having seen many films and movies and read books about the Holocaust.  (Also, hearing from my own family members about their experiences.) The most significant item I found was a sign that had been posted on the train, taking people to Westerbork and Auschwitz, which is were members of my father's family was taken.  I was also looking for something about Kindertransports but did not find anything here.  After Marty and I finished the exhibit, we visited the Archives in an attempt to research some information, me about the Kindertransport to Sweden (I was not successful) and Marty, to learn about the Dutch Prostitutes who saved Jews (also not very successful).  However, we did get some ideas from this search.  In general, we both found the exhibit somewhat sanitized and incomplete in their attempt to deal with a painful and difficult period in history.

After having a bite of lunch, we boarded the bus, for a return trip to the Old City, specifically the Cardo (the market in the Jewish Quarter) to do some shopping.  Marty and I purchased some wonderful gifts and were pleased with our purchases as well as supporting the Israeli economy.  While we were there, a torrential downpour occurred and we had to wait for this to slow down a bit as water was gushing down steps making it difficult to travel.  In addition, many of us did not bring umbrellas or rain gear.  Eventually, we had to leave even though it was still raining.  In addition to getting wet, the other problem is that the streets of Jerusalem are made of stone which becomes very slippery when wet.  We made it back to the bus, wet and cold and eager to return to our hotel to change into dry clothes.  

After changing we proceed to our next study session, Marty and I bring our Halavah, for a snack. (Everyone in our group expressed hunger from being out in the cold rain earlier.)

After our study, a group of us, headed to a new location, Mamilla Mall.  This is a very trendy outdoor mall.  We ended up at the Rimon Cafe (another location) and enjoyed our dinner before walking back to the hotel (tonight being too tired and cold to return to the Western Wall).  

It seems like we just began this tour and the days are now speeding up as we head into the last days of being in Israel.  The group is jelling and friendships are being made and we are all acutely aware that the end of the trip is near.  For me (and I think Marty as well), it seems like we have been here forever.  So much has happened during our trip and we are continually grateful for this opportunity and gift.  

Well, have to read some Torah before going to sleep in preparation for tomorrow.

Tuesday-Tour of the Old City

This morning, our guide Nir, took us for a tour of the Old City.  Having been here previously several times, I was anxious to get in and return to the places that I had visited, but tried to be patient knowing that there would be plenty of opportunity to return.  We entered through the Jaffa Gate, through the Armenian Quarter, continuing on to the Jewish Quarter.  Each of the Quarters, had its own unique characteristics as style identifying the particular culture.  We entered the Arab Shuk (market), stopping at the "best" Halavah (a sweet) stand where many of us stocked up on varieties of Halavah.  I found a shop near this where I could stock up on the scarves that I like from a man who said he was having sales because he was closing his shop and moving to Texas.  The scarves at $3.00 a piece were a great deal so I purchased several saying that I would return with my friends to purchase more.  (I later had a memory that I had met this merchant during my last visit and he said the same thing.  But the scarves are still a good price.)

From here we proceeded to Lina's restaurant, also in the Arab Quarter, which claims to have the best Humus in Israel (and it certainly does!).  After we enjoyed our lunch, we continued to the Western Wall for all to have the opportunity to visit.  From here we entered a location which took us to a newly excavated continuation of the Western Wall underground.  (I had been here before as well, but am still amazed at the length of the Wall and the layers of history found here.)  In this Western Wall tunnel, there are areas for prayers for women (the men have a "library" and study area off to the left of their area of the wall).  Leaving this area, brought us our to the Lion's Gate, where we found our bus and returned to the hotel.

We had a brief opportunity to catch up before proceeding to our study session.  These sessions have been very meaningful and educational.  I have been pretty quiet during many of these as there are others who are more comfortable speaking up with comments or questions.  During these sessions, we study passages that are relevant to the places that we have or will be visiting.

After our study session, we found that several of our group wanted to have dinner with us.  It came as somewhat of a surprise and we were unable to accommodate all.  We went with a small group (now with some new friends) back to Ben Yehuda Street.  Again, meandering through the street and shops and finally to the Rimon Cafe where we had dinner. At the Cafe on this evening, all the women received a rose in honor of Rosh Hodesh, the celebration of the new month.   Following dinner,we walked with a new person to the Western Wall.  I particularly love being there in the evening which has a different feeling that during the day.  This was a busier evening as many women (and men) came out to honor and celebrate the new month.

Following our visit, again we took a taxi, returning to the hotel.

Monday-Leaving the Negev

Today we began our journey of ascent to Jerusalem.  I was sad to leave the Negev (desert), but looking forward to returning to Jerusalem.  We had two stops along the way.  The first was to a farm in the Negev, a rarity in the desert.  This farm which was developed by a 'pioneer' who came out to the desert, took over an existing farm,  studied ancient farming methods and then regenerated this farm with concepts that he developed.  The farm now contains a thriving vineyard, producing wine which is sold at the farm as well as online; and jams as well.  In addition, Eyal (the farmer) also has olive trees and a variety of fruit trees which provide additional products.  Marty and I purchased wine, and apple liquor, olives and jams to take home and enjoy while reminding us of the desert.

After this we traveled to a Bedouin Herbalist, Mariam, "Desert Daughter",  in the first Bedouin community established in Israel.  There were a number of significant features of this visit.  First, the Herbalist, is a 30 year old, single woman (a rarity in this culture), who became educated in London, and returned to her community determined to make a difference, supporting and educating the women in her village.  She developed a line of women's skin products made by traditional Bedouin herbal methods she learned from her grandmother.  Initially, she had much difficulty and pressure from the community, but over time, women came to use and enjoy her products and so a business began.  She has been doing this for 3 years and created a Bedouin tent dwelling where visitors and tourists come to hear her story and buy her products.  A documentary has been made about her as well.   She was very inspiring and of course, we all supported her by purchasing multiple products.  

It was also very interesting visiting this Bedouin community which had been established by Israel to provide Bedouins housing and services.  While this provided some benefits, it was also a contrast to their nomadic culture and has had its ramifications.  

We left Mariam, and traveled north to Jerusalem, leaving the terrain of the desert for the hills of Judea.  After traveling with little traffic, we arrived in Jerusalem during rush hour and an enormous amount of traffic.  Our first stop was an area that provided a panoramic view of Jerusalem and the Old City to say the Shechechyanu (a blessing for our "first" visit to Jerusalem, on this trip, the blessing for wine and bread, eating from a freshly baked Challah that was delivered to us for this special event.

From here we drove to our hotel the Dan Panorama.  We checked into the hotel, had a study session and then broke off into two groups for dinner.  Marty and I and two other men, walked to Ben Yeduda Street, not far from the hotel, visiting shops and finding a wonderful local place to eat "Zion Hagadol".  Here we had assorted shish kabobs which were served with assorted salads (as is the tradition).  

After dinner, we all walked to the Old City (with me as the guide) to the Western Wall for our first visit.  For one of the men who accompanied us, this was the first visit, so together we said the Schechechyanu for Bruce, before separating to the men and women's section.  It was a quiet evening so that I could get to the Wall almost immediately. I was so grateful for the opportunity to return to Jerusalem and to be standing and touching the Wall while saying my own prayers.  I felt that I wanted to do more and stay longer, but did not feel quite prepared.

However, I felt fulfilled for having visited the Wall on my first evening. I met up with the men and we took a taxi back to the hotel.