Friday and Shabbat-to Mitzpe Ramon

This morning we got up early and packed up to leave the Dead Sea and head off to Mitzpe Ramon. Along the way we stopped at Shivta, a Nabbatean ruin.  The Nabbateans were a sect of people who began as nomads and traveled the spice route, then setting up rest stops along the way for other caravans.  This was one such rest stop, which has been preserved very well, giving us an idea of their skills in preserving water and creating buildings that kept them cool during hot summers and warm during the cold seasons.

After this we visited Kibbutz Revivim, which was the first and farthest point in the Negev (desert) during the British Mandate.  We visited the historic Kibbutz, which contains much original equipment, including two planes, and shows the set set up for the secret operations that occurred from this site during the establishment of the State of Israel.  The British were told that this location was a meteorological location where the rain fall would be measured, which enabled the people who were to develop this location,  an acceptable reason to come to begin the establishment of a community in this area that was off limits for development.

After our tour, we were offered a light lunch consisting of vegetables, cheeses and humus made on the modern kibbutz next door.

From here we continued to Mitzpe Ramon, stopping first at the crater to see what it looked like before heading to the Ramon Inn.  (This is my third time to this area and I am so grateful to be back again.)  I stayed at this inn in 2004, during my tour with Alan, and had been traveling with my dear friend Billie who died earlier this year.  Billie was very much in my heard and mind today.  We have a very nice room here and this being a Moroccan run hotel, the food is exceptional.

We checked in and then settled into our room for a bit.  Before dinner, we met as a group to light Shabbat candles and retire to a private room for a Shabbat Service and Torah study.  It is so good to have this opportunity to study together in such a setting.

We then went into the dining room for dinner.  The food plentiful and very exciting and delicious.  After dinner, we came  back to our room.  We went to sleep early as we were planning to get up at 4:30 a.m. for the sunrise at the crater.

Thursday, Dead Sea & Masada

Breakfast at Hod Hamidbar was good, but I liked the Metropolitan better (actually all around).  This is a more commercial hotel with many groups of people coming regularly to enjoy the mineral benefits of the Dead Sea.

After breakfast we left for Masada.  We had two options here, one was to take the cable car up and to the tour with Nir, the second, to hike up the Snake Path (about 1 hour hike) with Alan.  As I had done the tour a couple of times, I decided to try the hike.  I was determined to complete this, but a little less than half way, I started to lose steam.  The sun by now was very hot and strong (generally this type of hike is best in the very early part of the morning, it was now 10:00 a.m.)  and it was getting steeper as we climbed up.  Marty was having an easier time of it and kept asking me if I wanted to go back and finally I accepted his offer and turned around to climb back down, still proud of my accomplishment.  After the group gathered back together, we continued our journey to En Gedi, which is an oasis and nature reserve and also has a kibbutz, to have lunch and do a small hike in the nature reserve to see some of the sprngs this area is famous for.

From here we returned to the hotel for relaxation before dinner.  Some people has massages and treatments.  Marty and I opted for a dunk in the Dead Sea.  It was very nice, as the water was warm and the hotel had set up a railing for people to hold onto so that they could remain upright as the significance of the Dead Sea is that it is so full of minerals that nothing can live in it and nothing can sink in it.  The danger is that one cannot get these minerals in one's mouth or nose, as this could lead to aspiration and likely death.  So there are rules about not floating on one's stomach and no splashing.  Also, not staying in the water for more than 25 minutes and then having to come out and shower before re-entering again. Initially, I didn't think that we would stay too long, but found I enjoyed being in the water and stayed the 25 minutes.  After this we showered and went to the outdoor pool, which was also warm and lovely.

We returned to our room after this, showered and dressed for dinner, which was much better than last night, probably because it was the first seating and early in the evening.  After dinner, we had a study group, which started with everyone saying why they were on this trip and what they hoped to get out of it.  Then we studied Samuel 1: 1-20, which discussed David and King Saul in a cave at Ein Gedi, as they ones we had seen earlier in the day.  After this, I was exhaused and fell into bed and sleep.

Wednesday-transition day

This was a day of transition... Early this morning we had breakfast with Dov, who is an Israeli Film distributor and who provided the films for the Israeli Film Festival.  We had brought with us some Mary Meyer stuffed moose with Vermont sewn in and gave him two when we learned that he had two young daughters.  We discussed the impact the  Israeli Films had on the Brattleboro area community and the continuation of this as well as possibly developing monthly showings of films at the Hooker Dunham Theatre (he couldn't get over the name).

After leaving him we went over to say goodby to Erika, who today was wearing one of her new blouses.  (I left some spending money for her as well.)  It was sad to say goodbye, but we had a wonderful visit and I look forward to seeing her again next year.

We returned to our hotel, checked out and took a taxi to the Central Train Station in Tel Aviv, where we got the train to Haifa.  We both enjoyed the train ride immensely and it was much more pleasant and cheaper than the taxi.  We arrived at the train station, took a taxi to the hotel where the Haifa Rotary Club would be meeting and left our luggage so that we could walk around a bit.  My goal was to take Marty to the Louis Promenade (behind the HOF Hotel I stayed at last trip).  This is the location for the most beautiful and vast view of Haifa and the coast.  Despite the very smoggy day, we had a wonderful view of Haifa and the Bahia Temple.

From there we took a taxi back to Har HaCarmel hotel to be guests at the Haifa Rotary.  We were welcomed by members and had a liaison for the afternoon, Zvi.  He introduced us to the buffet, which was loaded with abundant varieties of salads, meats and dessert.  After some announcements, Marty exchanged flags with the president before the main speakers were presented.  The club has an extensive membership including the Mayor of Haifa who spoke about a recent film festival.  The main speaker was a former admiral of the Israeli Navy and while we did not get most of what he was talking about, we understood it to be about the division of Israel for the Palestinians and the pros and cons about certain boundaries.  I think it would have been very interesting, but our host did not seem inclined to share much about it.

Following the meeting we took a taxi back to the train station to catch a train for the airport where we would be meeting up with our tour group.  All of our connections went well and eventually we found our group at the airport.  After introductions and finding the tour guide, we headed off for the bus to the Dead See.  

We boarded the bus and road about 1 1/2 hours until we reached our hotel Hod Hamidbar (place in the desert) was located.  We left the bus quickly, labeled our luggage and then headed to the dining room where the buffet dinner had been held for us.  After dinner, some went off for a study session, but Marty and I wanted to write our blogs and to to sleep.  Unfortunately, the internet was not at its best in this hotel, but we checked our mail and then went to bed.

October 21st-our 29th Anniversary-continued

We returned to Tel Aviv to our hotel briefly before going to visit Erika again.  We promised to take her out for "Gliddah" (ice cream).  When we arrived, she greeted us in one of her new dresses to which she added a belt and sweater.  She looked very cute, hardly almost 80 years old.  She said that she wanted to go to Dizengoff Street and walk around, as this was a place she had spent much time with her deceased husband and later a friend.  We found a place for ice cream quickly and she enjoyed this very much.  Many of the stores were still closed for the holiday which had ended at sunset.  She wanted to walk to a particular location, which had housed a performance center where she had danced and listened to concerts.  She said that the building had been torn down but she wanted to see how the new building was progressing.  We walked quite a way, but she was very determined to find this location.  We finally reached the spot and found an unfinished building.  Erika seemed to be mourning the loss of the time she spent here with family and friends.   Following this we found a taxi and returned Erika  home, satisfied again with the day's activities, but I think sad knowing that we were leaving the next day.

After this we returned to the hotel and prepared to go to my cousin Ruth's.  She was very enthusiastic about my being here and the potential for me to see everyone in her family that evening.  It took us longer than expected to arrive there as our first taxi driver dropped us off on a street of the same name in a different town.  Once Ruth and I realized this, she called for another taxi for us to take us to her location.  

We arrived and were greeted by a clan of people including my Aunt Sara; Ruth, her husband Rafi;  three children: Micki, Cobi and Liron, now adults and their significant others.  Also, Rafi's brother and his family were there as well as some friends of his.  Ruth said that they all lived in the house or nearby except for Cobi, who lived in Tel Aviv.

Ruth had prepared a wonderful feast of Israel food and looked so in her element as the matriarch of this family.  When I saw her 28 years ago, she was a young woman with a husband and small child.  Also, I knew her mostly as a child in New Jersey before her family returned to Israel and it was fascinating seeing her now as an adult, but still seeing the child within.

It was so good to connect with this side of my family and I had a sense of missing these relationships.

Again, this evening Marty brought his computer and patiently showed photos of our family, Vermont and Rachel's artwork to entertain all.

We enjoyed our visit and left saying that I would remain in contact with Ruth and Sara and would plan to return with my family next year and spend more time together.

Before we came, I had a totally different idea of our visit in Tel Aviv and had not committed to seeing anyone but Izzy and Erika.  However, I believe this was my destiny during this visit and I am very happy that I have reconnected with these members of my family.  I look forward to our return visit, to spending more time with them and introducing them to my family as well.

Reconnecting with Family-Tuesday, Oct 21

This day was dedicated to seeing family, some I haven't seen for 28 years.  I had been trying to reach my aunt sara, spoke to her earlier after our arrival and then couldn't reach her.  After trying a variety of configurations on the phone, I reached her and arranged for us to go over to her apartment at noon.  Sara is the wife of my father's deceased brother and as I said, I haven't seen her for 28 years.  We were greeted with open arms and warm smile upon our arrival.  I thought how good it was to see her.  Marty had brought his computer to show her photos of our family and life in the states and she was very pleased about this.  She lives in Holon, which is where my family lived when I was a small child.  She has a wonderful view of Tel Aviv from her apartment.  

During our visit, my cousin Ruth, her daughter, called to invite us to her home later in the evening when her entire family would be gathering for her husband's birthday celebration.  Of course, I accepted.  We left Sara  saying that we would see her later in the evening and promising to stay in touch, now that we have reconnected.

Monday evening-Simchas Torah

This being a Jewish holiday period, continues this evening with Simchas Torah where we celebrate Moses receiving the Ten Commandments at Mt. Sinai.  In Israel, this holiday is treated as Shabbat, with people working a half day and business closing for the evening and the next day (until Sunset).  This did not present much of an impact for our evening as we are in a tourist location and many of the restaurants were still open.  We walked down to the beach and as we have just a couple of evenings left here, I wanted to go to a restaurant on the beach again, so that we could watch the waves come in and enjoy the wonderful sea breezes while we ate.  After having falafel and tehina at such a place, we walked down the beach a bit.  The water was so warm and the sand so soft on our feet.  We left the beach and ventured up to a coffee shop, Kakoa, where we enjoyed cappuccino and apple pie unlike our version. The cappucino is presented with a image of fruit, mine looked like a plum, Marty's like an apple.  The pie, as you can see, is very different that what we know and was presented on a plate with cinnamon and powdered sugar.  Very delicious!

Monday-meeting the director

This morning, we got up early, had a bit of breakfast in the "Sukkah" created in the hotel.  Following this we were picked up at our hotel by Dani Menken, the director of "18 Kilos of Love" and "Wisdom of the Pretzel", who had provided these movies for the Israeli Filmfest last summer, and his wife Miriam.   Marty had been in touch with Dani and told him we were coming to Israel.  They brought us to Jaffa to an "authentic" and best place for hummus, called Abu-Hassan.  This is a place that often has so many patrons that they crowd together at anyone's table and even sit outside on the steps, just to eat this food. Dani told us that hummus is the worker's breakfast because it provides so much energy.  He was right, the food was delicious! 

After our meal, we walked together through parts of Jaffa and then parted ways as Dani had an appointment.  Miriam suggested that we stay and spend time in this artist colony which we did. 

We found a small gallery recently opened by a young glass artist and I found a beautiful "magic" piece, that changes color depending on the color that I am wearing.  I was very happy to support this artist in her new gallery.  After this we walked around further to a "Wishing Bridge"  where is told that if you hold onto your zodiac sign (they are imbedded in the railing of the bridge) and look out to sea, your wishes will come true so Marty and I did this.  Also, at this location was a spot which provided a fantastic view of Tel Aviv and the beach.

We began our trek down, stopping at Aladdin's for coffee and Labaneh (a cream cheese made of goat cheese that is served with olive oil and Zatar (my favorite spice) and pita bread.  We ate this on the terrace overlooking Tel Aviv.

We decided to walk back to Tel Aviv rather than taking a taxi (and it didn't really look that far).  We later figured out that we must have walked for a couple of hours and in total this day must have walked about 4 1/2 hours.  It was a great walk, but towards the end, had to stop a couple of times for water and a rest.  As we approached our desired location, Marty spotted a Gelato store and we stopped for this treat.  Marty got the "Chinese Pecan" flavor and I Coconut Chocolate and it was really fantastic, really hit the spot.  

After this we returned to our hotel and basically crashed for a couple of hours.